What does the term "Reduced" mean?

"This wine is definitely reduced."

Have you ever heard this descriptor and thought, "what does that mean?" I found myself asking this question a lot back when I did the Benchmark Wine Tasting class (whoa, back in January, time flies when your tasting wine). Many people around the classroom, specifically those involved in winemaking, knew this term and used it a lot. So I made a note to look it up when I got home, and the results may interest you!

One of my favorite wine writers, Dr. Vinny, explains the definition of "reduced" in an easy way, he says, "'reduced' is a term used to described wine that has not been exposed to air." It seems strange that since we are surrounded by air that it is even possible for wine to be exposed to too little air. However, the process of controlling how much air is exposed to the grape juice during fermentation is an extremely important process. Winemakers use steel tanks, oak barrels and other sealed vessels to control the amount of air exposed during fermentation. When wine is exposed to too much air, it is described as "oxidized." The opposite, restricting the air exposure, results in a "reduced" wine.

So how can you tell that a wine is "reduced?" 

A little bit depressing, but will definitely help you remember "reduced."

A little bit depressing, but will definitely help you remember "reduced."

When you open a bottle of wine, you are instantly exposing the wine to air. If the wine is "reduced," it will be gasping for air once opened. While the wine is "gasping for air," it releases a strong smell like lit matches or sulfur. (Not particularly desirable right?) When I taste a wine that is reduced, I thought it smelled like canned vegetables, specifically canned green beans. Flaws like this will usually overwhelm any fruit or earth flavors in the wine and is typically not curable with aeration. 

Generally, when a wine is considered "reduced" most assume it is an automatic flaw. However, "reduction" is also  a winemaking technique, used more frequently in Burgundy. When a winemaker engages in reductive winemaking, they are highlighting the fine lees, or dead yeast cells, that accumulate at the bottom of the fermentation vessel.  This is typically done to add complexity to the flavor. By emphasizing the fine lees, the winemaker will have to rack less, thus limiting the exposure of the wine to air. (Since it sits in the fermentation vessel for much longer, rather than moving the wine from a steel tank to a barrel). If you discover that your wine is reduced during winemaking, it can be remedied by exposing the wine to more air. However, if you discover that you wine is reduced out of the bottle, it is a clear flaw, that even with aeration will not likely be removed from the wine.

Wine notes to takeaway -- if you notice that your wine smells overwhelmingly like canned green beans, lit matchsticks, or sulfur, then your wine is likely "reduced" (due to lack of exposure of oxygen during winemaking) and it, very sadly, is flawed to the point of no return.

 

To never stumbling upon a "reduced" wine in the field!

Cheers!

Benchmark Wine Tasting Class: Other Classic Whites

Hey there wine nerds! Welcome to the second installment of the benchmark wine series. For the newbies, I previously introduced a benchmark wine tasting series based on a tasting I did at Penn State University. Last time, I provided an overview on aromatic whites. Now, I will be discussing "other classic whites," or more specifically Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. We also tasted an Albariño just to mix things up.

This tasting couldn't be more interesting because I considered these grapes extremely different in flavor and character. When I think of Sauvignon Blanc, I think of bright citrus, spicy green pepper and high acidity. When I think Chardonnay, I think smooth vanilla, stone fruit flavors and full-body. However, now that I think a little more, the two grapes are similar in one curious way -- they are both very versatile. Both have adapted to a variety of locations and styles, resulting in a variety of selection for consumers.

Sauvignon Blanc.

I have said it before and I will say it again, Sauvignon Blanc is my favorite grape! If you drink Sauvignon Blanc, then you know it has those awesome citrus, herbaceous, or even grassy green pepper flavors. Thanks to the world wide web, I learned a fun new principle when it comes to the flavors of Sauvignon Blanc: the ripeness of the grapes plays a major role in the flavor profile. (Duh, but listen to this!) If the grapes are LESS ripe, the wine is more likely to taste like lime or green apple. While, if the grapes are MORE ripe, the wine will likely taste like flowery peach or citrus. The best regions for Sauvignon Blanc are Bordeaux, Loire Valley (specifically Sancerre), New Zealand, and California. When surfing the aisles at the wine store, you can also look for the following synonyms: Fume Blanc or Pouilly-fume and you will most likely be drinking Sauvignon Blanc. Looking for food pairing tips? A good general rule is "go green," since the herbaceous qualities of the wine will pair well with salads, but any herb based sauce would pair well also. Now that we have covered the Sauvignon Blanc basics, let's check out the wines I tried at the benchmark wine tasting:

BANCROFT ESTATE 2011

Where it's from. Marlborough, New Zealand.

My thoughts. I love NZ style Sauvignon Blanc because it's so distinct. The flavors can be grassy, spicey, or peppery. This particular bottle had a lighter style than I have experienced with most NZ Sauvignon Blancs, which was fine. It definitely had the spicey finished and white pepper notes tha I expected. Overall, this wine was delicious but, as the only NZ Sauvignon Blanc on the tasting, I was hoping for a bolder style. The room thought it would be hard to pair with food - but I argue it would go great with an arugula salad. (Don't knock it before you try it!)

Chardonnay.

Chardonnay and I have a love-hate relationship. Generally, I am not a fan of most those "butter-bomb" styles. But, the unoaked styles, generally out of the Old World, are quite lovely. Like our discussion above, the ripeness of the Chardonnay grape also changes dramatically with ripeness. MORE ripe and you may notice flavors of pineapple and other tropical fruit, LESS ripe and you may notice strong notes of lemon or green apple. Similar varietals include: Marsanne, Rousanne, Viognier, Semillion and Fiano (Italy). Check out the wines I tasted below:

KENDALL-JACKSON VINTNER'S RESERVE

Where it's from. California.

My thoughts.  Definitely not a favorite. If you like the buttery styles, you may like this, but it's definitely not for me.

HENRY FESSY CHARDONNAY 2010

Where it's from. Pouilly-Fuisse, France

My thoughts. This wine could give any ABCer a run for their money. (Anything But Chardonnay). It had a pungent aroma that I was sure would mirror the taste - but I was so wrong. The flavors were subtle and sweet. Definitely an interesting wine.

LOUIS LATOUR 2008

Where it's from. Côte-d'Or, Burgundy, France.

My thoughts. This wine may have been my favorite white, maybe even my favorite wine of the tasting. This producer is just awesome. Yes, it is a bit more expensive - around $40 a bottle - but arguably worth every penny. The wine had a very refreshing aroma, including aloe or mint. However, it had a smooth and round taste, with an almost tart finish. I loved the complexities.

Albariño.

This grape is lovely. If you are ever in the wine store looking for something a bit different in the white wine aisle, Albariño is a great option. It is most commonly grown in northern Spain, specifically the Rías Baixas region. This grape is interesting because it has a pronounced fruit-forward aroma. For our benchmark wine tasting, we tasted the 2010 Mar de Vinas Albariño from Spain. Another great wine! It had the fruit aromas and bright acidity that I was hoping for - so check this wine out!

That is all for this post on benchmark wine - classic whites!

 

Cheers!

Benchmark Wine Tasting Class: Aromatic Whites

Back in mid-January, I had the privilege to participate in a Benchmark Wine Tasting at Penn State University with the Penns Woods Winery crew. Needless to say, for a wine-nerd like me, it was an awesome experience! First of all, I got to taste approximately 30 different wines - made with different varietals and produced in different regions. But as an added bonus, it was interesting (and somewhat refreshing) to not be the biggest wine nerd in the room!

This series will discuss the wines that were tasted and provided an overview of the region and/or grape of each wine. To keep the posts (relatively) short, the series will be broken up into multiple posts, organized by the flights we tasted. First up, we tasted a flight of aromatic whites, including three Rieslings and two Gewürztraminers. I will also discuss the two Moscatos that we tasted at the end of the day, since Moscato (while sweet) is typically a highly aromatic white wine.

(Above are some of the labels we tried. These images are intended to identify the producer and not necessarily the specify wine/vintage).

So what is the definition of aromatic?

Webster's tells us that, generally, the term "aromatic" means "having a pleasant and distinctive smell." But, we know know that when it comes to wine - everything has multiple definitions. When I hear aromatic, I think white wine. I expect a strong, fruit-forward or almost floral, aroma from the wine. Officially speaking, wine professionals agree the most common winemaking techniques used in the production of "aromatic wines" include: fermentation in stainless steel or concrete and harvesting the grapes later in the harvest to yield high acidity and low alcohol wines.

So what should you look for in the wine store if you want an aromatic white? The most popular varietals include: Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling and Viognier. For now, our discussions will stick to a comparison of Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Moscato.

Photo Source. The International Riesling Foundation (a fine foundation indeed!)

Photo Source. The International Riesling Foundation (a fine foundation indeed!)

Riesling.

Call me a broken record, but Riesling has a bad rep... especially in the United States. Americans either love it or hate it, but most assume its a honeyed sugar bomb. I can not say it enough -- drop the Riesling assumptions and taste with an open mind. The blog has discussed Riesling a few times, check out the feature here, but we have yet to dedicate a full tasting to this noble grape. Before I give you my thoughts on the individual Rieslings, remember the grape's best qualities, including:

  • Ability to withstand cooler climates, 
  • Notably food friendly, and
  • Light body and naturally high acidity.

Nimble Hill Riesling 2011

Where it's from. Pennsylvania, specifically Sugar Holland Vineyard.

My Thoughts. The room was amazed at the complexity of this Pennsylvania Riesling. I thought it was tart (in a good way), astringent and high acidity, with flavors of stone fruit and citrus.

Chateau Ste. Michelle Riesling 2011

Where it's from. Columbia Valley, Washington.

My Thoughts. This wine was tart as well, but not nearly as astringent when tasted. The group thought it tasted of citrus, grapefruit and even petrol. (not sure where some get this taste from - I'm looking into it!)

S.A. Prum Kabinett Riesling 2009

Where it's from. Mosel, Germany.

My Thoughts. I think one of the reasons Americans (and wine-drinkers internationally) fear Riesling is the ever-daunting German wine label. Germans are nothing if not thorough, and so are the wine labels. So when you see "Kabinett" on the label, remember that the wine was made with late harvest grapes that can be semi-sweet or dry (trocken). When I tasted this wine, I was definitely intrigued. When I heard "Kabinett" I assumed it would be on the sweeter side - I was so wrong. It had a subtle sweet apple flavor without the overpowering honey.

Gewürztraminer.

Gewürztraminer is distinguishable from Riesling because it has only moderate acidity and is full-bodied. It's primarily grown in the Alsace region of France. I notice the prominent bouquet of aromas from this grape, including: rose, passion fruit and lychee. 

Paul Buecher Gewürztraminer 2011

Where it's From. Alsace, France.

My Thoughts. This wine was awesome. It had a powerful floral aroma including rose and honeysuckle. But the taste was completely different from the aroma. It had an almost hoppy flavor, spicy up front with a mellow finish.

Chateau Ste. Michelle Gewürztraminer 2010

Where it's From. Columbia Valley, Washington.

My Thoughts. This wine was mild in flavor. Drinkable but nothing to write home about.

Photo Source. 

Photo Source. 

Moscato.

"Moscato" is the Italian name for the Muscat grape. It is known for making semi-sweet, lightly sparkling, and low alcohol wines

Montefiori Moscato

Where it's From. Piedmont, Italy. Moscato is most commonly grown near the northern town of Asti (hence the term Moscato D'Asti, meaning Moscato from Asti).

My Thoughts. This wine totally surprised me. As a fan of red wine and dryer reds I was expected to not enjoy this wine. But I loved it! (As did most of the room). It had a beautiful aroma of rose water, honeysuckle and lemon. It tasted similarly to it's smell and was wonderfully fresh. We compared it to Barefoot Moscato, which even given the price, was flat and less enjoyable than the Montefiori version.

All in all -- it was a great day of tasting wine! Stand by for follow up posts from this benchmark tasting series!

 

Cheers!

 

What Gives Wine That "Buttery" Flavor?

"I love buttery Chardonnay." It's something I hear often. Both of my parents love buttery Chardonnays - but I couldn't be more opposite - I tend to steer clear of the "butter bombs," as I call them. But what actually makes the wine taste "buttery?" The answer may surprise you.

Photo Source. The "You're My Butter Half" Mural in Austin, Texas.

Photo Source. The "You're My Butter Half" Mural in Austin, Texas.

No its not oak barrels. It's actually malolactic fermentation.

While oak does contribute to the "buttery" notes in wine, it actually is more responsible for notes of vanilla, smoke or even coconut. But the real culprit (or champion depending on your view) is malolactic fermentation (MLF for short). What is MLF? It is the process used by wine-makers to convert malolactic acid to lactic acid. They do this to help soften the flavor of the wine. (Malolactic acid is tart, while lactic acid is softer). A by-product of MLF is diacetyl, or an organic compound with an intense buttery taste. The wine-maker can actually control the level of the "buttery" taste by choosing varying strengths of MLF.

So it's not completely the barrel's fault after all! 

 

Cheers!