Wine 101: What is Fermentation

So, I like to say that I have been "serious" about wine for almost two years now. Over that period of time, I feel confident in what I have learned about the winemaking process, wine regions and the most popular grapes. But now, I notice as I try to take my wine knowledge to the next level and really understand how winemaker's make this delicious product, it all leads back to one thing -- the process.

This post will discuss the winemaking process, specifically fermentation. Fermentation, together with the grapes and the aging process play a major role in developing a wine's flavor and character. A little knowledge on this process goes a long way in understanding why you may like certain styles of wine over others. Plus, it could really impress you friends or coworkers at that next cocktail party or happy hour.

Photo Source. 

Now for you science nerds, fermentation is best described by the following formula:

sugar + yeast = alcohol + carbon dioxide

Plainly stated, fermentation is the process that turns grape juice to wine because the yeast consumes natural sugars from the grape which yields alcohol and carbon dioxide (which is essential to creating flavors/aromas). This process will continue until either all the sugar is consumed or until the winemaker stops the process by cooling the temperature of the juice. It is this step that determines whether a wine is dry or off-dry. Off-dry wines (or sweet) are sweeter because some sugars are left over (residual) after the fermentation stops, Dry wines, on the other hand, are not sweet because the yeast consume all of the natural sugar in the grapes.

To key elements that winemaker's must keep an eye on during fermentation are oxygen and temperature. Oxygen is essential to a wine's flavor, but too much can be a problem. Further, it is important for the winemaker to keep the temperature steady -- if it's too hot, the wine can spoil, but if it's too cold, fermentation may slow or stop altogether.

In conclusion, the fermentation process is a balancing game to produce the right environment for sugar to be converted into alcohol. Until next time.

Cheers!

Benchmark Wine Tasting Class: Aromatic Whites

Back in mid-January, I had the privilege to participate in a Benchmark Wine Tasting at Penn State University with the Penns Woods Winery crew. Needless to say, for a wine-nerd like me, it was an awesome experience! First of all, I got to taste approximately 30 different wines - made with different varietals and produced in different regions. But as an added bonus, it was interesting (and somewhat refreshing) to not be the biggest wine nerd in the room!

This series will discuss the wines that were tasted and provided an overview of the region and/or grape of each wine. To keep the posts (relatively) short, the series will be broken up into multiple posts, organized by the flights we tasted. First up, we tasted a flight of aromatic whites, including three Rieslings and two Gewürztraminers. I will also discuss the two Moscatos that we tasted at the end of the day, since Moscato (while sweet) is typically a highly aromatic white wine.

(Above are some of the labels we tried. These images are intended to identify the producer and not necessarily the specify wine/vintage).

So what is the definition of aromatic?

Webster's tells us that, generally, the term "aromatic" means "having a pleasant and distinctive smell." But, we know know that when it comes to wine - everything has multiple definitions. When I hear aromatic, I think white wine. I expect a strong, fruit-forward or almost floral, aroma from the wine. Officially speaking, wine professionals agree the most common winemaking techniques used in the production of "aromatic wines" include: fermentation in stainless steel or concrete and harvesting the grapes later in the harvest to yield high acidity and low alcohol wines.

So what should you look for in the wine store if you want an aromatic white? The most popular varietals include: Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Riesling and Viognier. For now, our discussions will stick to a comparison of Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Moscato.

Photo Source. The International Riesling Foundation (a fine foundation indeed!)

Riesling.

Call me a broken record, but Riesling has a bad rep... especially in the United States. Americans either love it or hate it, but most assume its a honeyed sugar bomb. I can not say it enough -- drop the Riesling assumptions and taste with an open mind. The blog has discussed Riesling a few times, check out the feature here, but we have yet to dedicate a full tasting to this noble grape. Before I give you my thoughts on the individual Rieslings, remember the grape's best qualities, including:

• Ability to withstand cooler climates, 
• Notably food friendly, and
• Light body and naturally high acidity.

Nimble Hill Riesling 2011

Where it's from. Pennsylvania, specifically Sugar Holland Vineyard.

My Thoughts. The room was amazed at the complexity of this Pennsylvania Riesling. I thought it was tart (in a good way), astringent and high acidity, with flavors of stone fruit and citrus.

Chateau Ste. Michelle Riesling 2011

Where it's from. Columbia Valley, Washington.

My Thoughts. This wine was tart as well, but not nearly as astringent when tasted. The group thought it tasted of citrus, grapefruit and even petrol. (not sure where some get this taste from - I'm looking into it!)

S.A. Prum Kabinett Riesling 2009

Where it's from. Mosel, Germany.

My Thoughts. I think one of the reasons Americans (and wine-drinkers internationally) fear Riesling is the ever-daunting German wine label. Germans are nothing if not thorough, and so are the wine labels. So when you see "Kabinett" on the label, remember that the wine was made with late harvest grapes that can be semi-sweet or dry (trocken). When I tasted this wine, I was definitely intrigued. When I heard "Kabinett" I assumed it would be on the sweeter side - I was so wrong. It had a subtle sweet apple flavor without the overpowering honey.

Photo Source.

Gewürztraminer.

Gewürztraminer is distinguishable from Riesling because it has only moderate acidity and is full-bodied. It's primarily grown in the Alsace region of France. I notice the prominent bouquet of aromas from this grape, including: rose, passion fruit and lychee. 

Paul Buecher Gewürztraminer 2011

Where it's From. Alsace, France.

My Thoughts. This wine was awesome. It had a powerful floral aroma including rose and honeysuckle. But the taste was completely different from the aroma. It had an almost hoppy flavor, spicy up front with a mellow finish.

Chateau Ste. Michelle Gewürztraminer 2010

Where it's From. Columbia Valley, Washington.

My Thoughts. This wine was mild in flavor. Drinkable but nothing to write home about.

Photo Source. 

Moscato.

"Moscato" is the Italian name for the Muscat grape. It is known for making semi-sweet, lightly sparkling, and low alcohol wines

Montefiori Moscato

Where it's From. Piedmont, Italy. Moscato is most commonly grown near the northern town of Asti (hence the term Moscato D'Asti, meaning Moscato from Asti).

My Thoughts. This wine totally surprised me. As a fan of red wine and dryer reds I was expected to not enjoy this wine. But I loved it! (As did most of the room). It had a beautiful aroma of rose water, honeysuckle and lemon. It tasted similarly to it's smell and was wonderfully fresh. We compared it to Barefoot Moscato, which even given the price, was flat and less enjoyable than the Montefiori version.

All in all -- it was a great day of tasting wine! Stand by for follow up posts from this benchmark tasting series!

Cheers!

What Gives Wine That "Buttery" Flavor?

"I love buttery Chardonnay." It's something I hear often. Both of my parents love buttery Chardonnays - but I couldn't be more opposite - I tend to steer clear of the "butter bombs," as I call them. But what actually makes the wine taste "buttery?" The answer may surprise you.

Photo Source. The "You're My Butter Half" Mural in Austin, Texas.

No its not oak barrels. It's actually malolactic fermentation.

While oak does contribute to the "buttery" notes in wine, it actually is more responsible for notes of vanilla, smoke or even coconut. But the real culprit (or champion depending on your view) is malolactic fermentation (MLF for short). What is MLF? It is the process used by wine-makers to convert malolactic acid to lactic acid. They do this to help soften the flavor of the wine. (Malolactic acid is tart, while lactic acid is softer). A by-product of MLF is diacetyl, or an organic compound with an intense buttery taste. The wine-maker can actually control the level of the "buttery" taste by choosing varying strengths of MLF.

So it's not completely the barrel's fault after all! 

Cheers!

Grape Tales: Riesling

Riesling has been in the news lately and not all of it has been good... no there isn't a major scandal (that I know of) but prices of German Rieslings are set to rise in 2014. With the threat of price increases, I figured I would share some details on Riesling and why you should pick some up while you can.

Photo Source. 

Let's start with the bad news. Decanter.com (a great resource for those interested in wine) reported that the price for German Rieslings is set to rise in 2014. The culprit for this spike in prices = bad weather during the 2013 growing season. Key regions like Rheingau and Mosel are seeing 20-30% decreases in their grape yields compared to last year.

So you know that German Riseling may be pricey this year, but you still have some reservations regarding the wine. Give me a chance to change your mind! We discussed a simple overview of Riesling in our Big Six Grapes post last year. Since then, I have noticed that Riesling is seriously misunderstood. Initially, wine drinkers may assume all Rieslings are "Über Sweet." Only when you discuss Riesling amongst serious drinkers will you likely hear more praise than disgust. I have said it before (and will likely say it again), Rieslings are not all super sweet and are arguably the best white wines to pair with food.

Riesling Tasting Profile.

Where it's Grown.  Mosel and Rheingau regions of Germany; Alsace, France; Austria; and Clare Valley Australia.

Common Characteristics.  Aromas of peach, nectarine, apricot, honeysuckle, jasmine, wet stone and even baking spices if it is well aged.

Acidity.  High to very high (perfect for food). It is also this high acidity that allows Riesling to be aged in the bottle and even stay preserved once opened. Most can last at least a decade, while the best bottles can last for almost 100 years.

Alcohol.  Extreme range, can be very low to high.

So if you don't mind the lightly sweetened styles, look to Germany first, anything with Kabinett (normally ripened grapes), Spätlese (sweeter, meaning "late harvest") or Auslese (sweeter still). If you like drier styles, try Alsace, France, where you will notice more citrus and apple balanced with mineral flavors. 

Cheers!

Dessert Wines 101

So much for those resolutions to eat better, work out more and lose weight. Why? - because the lovely ladies and gents of The Enthusiasts! an NYC Wine Tasting Club have chosen a truly decadent topic for this month's tasting - Dessert Wines!

Photo Source. Creme Brulee is by far my favorite dessert!

Personally, when it comes to dessert wines - I am typically NOT a fan. Seems weird, I love dessert and have a serious sweet tooth. My first experience with sweet wines was an Eiswein tasting in Heidelberg, Germany. Then, (age the grand old age of 18) I remember thinking the wine was sweet but delicious. However, a few years later, at a food and pairing event (where I had a white dessert wine paired with cheesecake) I was turned off to dessert wines because the pairing was way too sweet. And last month, when I sampled the Lacrima Dolce from Penns Woods Winery, my appreciation for dessert wines was revived! I am officially a fan!

Full disclosure: I work in the tasting room at Penns Woods Winery (and it's kind of the best job ever!). But, I aim to be upfront about my affiliations and remain unbiased when discussing wines I have tasted here (fun fact - it's actually the law). All disclosures aside, the Lacrima Dolce really did change my perspective on wine - it's merlot based and has ripe cherry flavors with a chocolate and cinnamon finish. I would have gladly had just that wine as the perfect finish to any meal. So even,  if you're not the biggest fan of dessert wines you will keep tasting and maybe there will be a game changer for you out there!

Photo Source. 

Now before you rush to the store to pick up a few bottles of sweet wine, it is important to understand the different types: late harvest, noble rot wines, raisin wines, and fortified wines.

Late Harvest Wines.  Typically, when wine is made, the majority of the natural sugar found in the grapes is consumed by the yeast during fermentation and yields the production of alcohol. So it actually takes a bit of effort to reach the increased sugar levels found in most dessert wines. When reading about dessert wines you may see the term chaptalization**, or the process of adding sugar before fermentation. Many winemakers today consider this cheating and it is an unpopular winemaking technique, especially among higher end producers. Thus, some sweeter wines are made from "late harvest" grapes, or grapes left on the vine as long as possible to increase their natural sugar content. This style of wine is commonly made in Germany, Austria and the Alsace region of France with Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Muscat and Chenin Blanc grapes. Be sure to check the label, for "late harvest," vendange tardive (French: "late harvest"), spätlese (German: "late harvest") or auslese ("select harvest," even later) - these are the sweeter styles.

Photo Source.  Ew, noble rot!

Noble Rot Wines.  Or 'botrytis cinerea' (if we want to get super nerdy), is a beneficial form of fungus that concentrates the sugar content of the grapes. This process is typically used with white grapes because red grapes become too unstable under noble rot. Also, be prepared to pay more for these sweet styles because this process is very expensive - many of the grapes are unusable so it takes many more grapes per bottle. Some of the best examples are made in Sauternes, Barsac from Bordeaux and Centraol Loire Valley. In Germany, look for "beerenauslese and trockenbeerenauslese" or even look to Hungary. The grapes used in each region vary.

Raisin Wines and Eiswein.  Both of these styles involve a process that dehydrates the grapes resulting in wines with high residual sugar. Making wine from raisins is actually one of the oldest methods of making sweet wines. Similarly, eiswein is made from grapes that are exposed to cold temperatures and frozen. 

Fortified Wines.  This is the process of adding alcohol during the winemaking process, either during fermentation or after fermentation has been completed. Common styles include: Port, (made in Douro, Portugal) which is infused with brandy-like yeast or Sherry, (made in Jerez, Spain) which isn't necessarily a sweet style, and even vermouth.  

Regardless of what method is used, expect to pay a bit more for quality dessert wines. It may seem like a splurge, given the smaller size of the bottles, but you are paying for the the extra production costs. If you are looking for values, check out wine made from Moscato or "Late Harvest" Riesling as these styles have higher residual sugars.

Cheers!

**Correction, this term was previously misspelled as "chapitalization" and has since been corrected.

Grape Tales: Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir is sometimes referred to as the "chef's wine." This is because Pinot Noir is light bodied enough to pair with a large variety of foods. Plus it's bright berry flavors are typically enjoyed by red and white wine drinkers alike.

Pinot Noir grapes are considered wine making royalty. But these grapes are definitely the black sheep of the royal family - high maintenance and a pain in the butt to grow. Pinot Noir grows best in cool climates. In such climates, the grapes are better situated to develop crisp acidity - a reason Pinot Noir is so frequently used when making sparkling wines. As if things weren't confusing enough, Pinot Noir also goes by different names in some countries. You will most likely see Spätburgunder, used in Germany.

Finally, Pinot Noir is the most widely planted grape and genetically unstable. This genetic instability means that Pinot Noir is prone to mutations, including Pinot Grigio/Gris and Pinot Blanc.

Pinot Noir Growing Profile.

Where it's grown.  Burgundy, France; California, specifically Sonoma Coast, Russian River Valley, and Carneros; and Oregon's Willamette Valley.

Common characteristics.  At a young age, Pinot Noir may have aromas of cherry, raspberry, or strawberry. With age, Pinot Noir develops more complex aromas including earth, mushroom, violet or sandalwood.

Acidity.  Medium to high.

Tannin.  Low, Pinot Noir is noted for it's silky smooth texture.

Cheers!

Wine 101: Benchmark Wines

Now that the gifts have been opened, the in-laws are heading out of town and we have rung in 2014 - its time to get back to business. This post is geared towards those wine drinkers who are aiming to move on from beginner status. So if you want to get serious about wine - the key is to inform yourself on the classics. These classic style wines have long served as benchmarks for the traditional regions or styles of wine.

Photo Source

So what do I mean by benchmark wine? Check out these suggestions organized by old world vs. new world styles:

Old World Classics:

Generally, when looking for a wine standard most sommeliers suggest you turn to France. It make sense, France is the global wine powerhouse. They have been making wine for centuries and have implemented strict rules regarding winemaking. If you are looking for a benchmark regarding Pinot Noir, start with Burgundy. If you want to try a classic Merlot, look to Pomerol (technically within the Bordeaux region). If you would pass on red wines from Bordeaux and prefer the style of white wine, look to Loire Valley, for  the best examples of classic Chenin Blanc or Sauvignon Blanc. Other regions to note include Rhone, Savoie, or Jura. And finally, Champagne is the classic benchmark for sparkling wine.

For the benchmark on Rieslings, you must go to Germany. There are many styles of Rieslings, but the classics come from Mosel, Rheingau, Pfalz, Rheinhessen. The Rieslings produced in Austria are also considered within the classic style, look there for classic Grüner Veltliner. 

So you love reds but prefer to look to Italy, the classic regions include Piedmont, Tuscany, and Veneto. For more details on the specifics of these regions, check out our earlier post on Italian wine here. Similarly, the best Spanish include Rioja, Sherry and Albariño (Spanish white grape). Additionally, some sommeliers are on the fence about Bierzo or Priorat as representative of classic Spanish grapes.

New World Classics:

"New World" wines include wines made from countries outside the classic European winemaking countries. This includes the United States, South America, Australia, New Zealand, Canada and others. Look to New Zealand for classic Sauvignon Blancs with green pepper, grassy or spicy notes. As for reds, look to Australia for classic Shiraz, California's Napa Valley for classic Cabernet Sauvignon and Oregon for Pinot Noir.

Look forward to more features on these regions specifically in upcoming posts - Happy 2014!

Cheers!