Wine Winter Project: Jean-Claude Dagueneau Domaine des Berthiers Pouilly-Fume

“Nothing great was ever achieved without enthusiasm. ”

— Ralph Waldo Emerson

As much as I love Ralph Waldo Emerson, describing my passion for this next style of wine as "enthusiastic" may be a bit of an understatement. In this post, I will review of one of my personal favorites, Pouilly-Fume! 

Every time I start a new post, I look back to see what I have written on the topic previously. Since the blog is relatively young, I usually find a few sparse details. However, when it comes to Sauvignon Blanc, specifically the French style from Pouily-Fume, there is an abundance of information on the topic already. (Not surprising, since it's delicious!). If you want a review my earlier posts, be sure to check out my comparison of California style Sauvignon Blanc with a Pouilly-Fume from France here. I also discussed Pouilly-Fume in my French Wine 101 magna-post.

But today the focus is on Pouilly-Fume, so let's get to it! When I initially tasted Pouilly-Fume, I assumed that the "Fume" meant the wine may have a smokey flavor. While there are many theories on this, most industry people (including Kevin Zraly - a favorite!) suggest that the name came from the "white morning mist that blankets the area." Personally, I think the "Fume" stands for steely gun barrel and minerality with a citrus finish. I know, what a crazy description, but when you taste it you will understand what I mean! A few final facts, this wine is not typically aged in wood and ready to drink within three to five years.

Remember to note the distinction between Pouilly-Fume (Sauvignon Blanc from Loire Valley) and Pouilly-Fuisse (Chardonnay from Loire Valley). 

Jean-Claude Dagueneau Domaine des Berthiers Pouilly-Fume

(2009)

Grapes. 100% Sauvignon Blanc

Where it's From. Pouilly-Fume AOC, located within the Loire Valley. Pouilly-Fume is considered within the Central Vineyards (called Central because they are located within the center of France, not the Loire Valley). The climate is continental. The soil consists primarily of clay and limestone topped with gravel and flinty pebbles (flint = gun barrel).

Alcohol. 12.5%

Winemaker's Notes. No official winemaker's notes were readily available, but the Wine Spectator did give it a 90.

My Thoughts. This was a total impulse buy that gave me a bit of sticker shock at the register, since it cost $24. Now even with the tax-free shopping available in the great state of Delaware, this is a bit over my usual price range for a weeknight wine. However, just the smell alone reminded me immediately of how much I love this style of wine. It smelled of steely citrus, spice and green pepper. The taste was much softer than the aroma - I expected an acid bomb - but it was super smooth and mouthwatering with a hint of lemon. I would argue that the wine is the best choice for sipping - it would really thrive if paired with food. I was thinking fish, or similar seafood, with a citrus based sauce.

Cheers!

Winter Wine Project: Red Knot Shiraz

I don't know what it is about this Winter Wine Project, but each time I write a new review the weather is at least 15 degrees colder. That's right folks, I'm writing my latest wine review while its a balmy 7 degrees outside. Sounds like perfect red wine drinking weather to me.

Surprisingly,  this is one of the firsts posts discussing wines made in Australia. But the Aussies can definitely hold there own when it comes to New World wine-making. Australia is the 4th largest exporter of wine. The key wine regions are located primarily in the south, including: South Australia, South Wales, Victoria and Western Australia. The major grape varietals grown here are Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Semillon, and Riesling. Wines are typically labeled by the grape varietal and the labeled grape must constitute  at least 85% of the blend.

A fun fact about Australia, GSM blends are very popular. GSM stands for a common red blend made of Grenache, Shiraz and  Mourvèdre. This blend was traditionally associated with Southern Rhône, including Châteauneuf-du-Pape.  The most famous label out of Australia (which I'm sure you have seen once or twice) is Penfolds Grange. Now let's get to the real wine review.

Red Knot Shiraz McLaren Vale Australia (2012)

Grapes: 92% Shiraz, 8% Grenache.

Where it's From: Southern Australia, grapes source from McLaren Vale Vineyard.

Alcohol: 14%

Winemaker's Notes: Deep magenta color. Aromas of black cherry, strawberry, milk chocolate with hints of roasted coffee and vanilla. The palate comprises of summer berries balanced with mild tannin and fresh acidity. Medium body.

My Thoughts:  This wine only gets better the more you allow it to breathe. I feel like a broken record, but I almost every red I drink definitely benefits from decanting. Initially, I thought this wine was off-balanced, but after decanting to really opened up. The berry fruit flavors became more prominent and it was very smooth. Definitely uncomplicated, but very drinkable. 

Until next time, Cheers!

What Gives Wine That "Buttery" Flavor?

"I love buttery Chardonnay." It's something I hear often. Both of my parents love buttery Chardonnays - but I couldn't be more opposite - I tend to steer clear of the "butter bombs," as I call them. But what actually makes the wine taste "buttery?" The answer may surprise you.

Photo Source. The "You're My Butter Half" Mural in Austin, Texas.

No its not oak barrels. It's actually malolactic fermentation.

While oak does contribute to the "buttery" notes in wine, it actually is more responsible for notes of vanilla, smoke or even coconut. But the real culprit (or champion depending on your view) is malolactic fermentation (MLF for short). What is MLF? It is the process used by wine-makers to convert malolactic acid to lactic acid. They do this to help soften the flavor of the wine. (Malolactic acid is tart, while lactic acid is softer). A by-product of MLF is diacetyl, or an organic compound with an intense buttery taste. The wine-maker can actually control the level of the "buttery" taste by choosing varying strengths of MLF.

So it's not completely the barrel's fault after all! 

Cheers!

Winter Wine Project: A to Z Wineworks Pinot Noir

Get excited for the first wine review for 2014 - a Pinot Noir from Oregon's Willamette Valley, produced by A to Z Wineworks!

I love January! It's a fresh start, everyone has new goals and is excited for the new year. And if you celebrate Christmas, then you may have some extra pep in your step after receiving a perfect gift or two. One of my favorite gifts of the season was a wine tasting journal given to me by my sister. Lately, I have been keeping track of my wine tastings through various wine apps, but  I would argue serious wine tasters should invest in a journal. Writing down your thoughts forces you to slow down and think about the wine in greater detail. The drawback? - it's yet another thing to carry and you will likely look like the biggest nerd at the dinner table. My advice, carry a big bag. (As for looking like a nerd, I'll get back to you on that one).

Another outstanding value from the great state of Oregon. And the people at A to Z Wineworks are winemakers after my own heart, offering "Aristocratic Wines are Democratic Prices." (I love a good political pun, even more so when its paired with wine). A to Z Wineworks is located in Willamette Valley, along with approximately 200 other wineries. The region is known for its cool climate and increasingly popular Pinot Noirs.

Let's nerd out about weather for a second. The weather during the growing season is extremely important to wine quality. The 2011 vintage for Willamette Valley was full of surprises. Early on it seemed that the vintage was going to be disastrous, with large grape production and a concern that it would never get warm enough for the grapes to ripen. Eventually, some late fall weather saved the vintage and the results have been comparable to other quality years. Overall, I think it affect of weather on wine would better explained through a vertical tasting (the same wine across different vintages) - a hopeful goal for 2014! Now, let's get to the specifics...

A to Z Wineworks Pinot Noir 2011.

Grapes: 100% Pinot Noir.

Where it's From: Willamette Valley, Oregon. The grapes for this wine are sourced from multiple vineyards across Willamette Valley.

Alcohol: 13%

Professional Notes: Apricot, bing cherry, white pepper, sweet tobacco. 

My Thoughts: Initially, I felt this wine was off balanced. It was a beautiful garnet color and a mild cherry aroma, but the taste seemed to be dominated by the alcohol. It wasn't undrinkable, it just seemed to be on mute. However, after 20 minutes the wine really softened and tasted delicious. The initial tastes were complimented by the subtle yet spicy finish.

Generally, this is the first wine from the Winter Wine Project that didn't wow me immediately, but did grow on me over time. Pinot Noir is a tough grape, especially when selling at bargain prices, and 2011 was a tough vintage. So in light of those factors, I would still recommend this wine to a friend, but would recommend decanting it before drinking. Stay tuned for the next wine - Red Knot Shiraz from Australia.

Cheers!

Grape Tales: Riesling

Riesling has been in the news lately and not all of it has been good... no there isn't a major scandal (that I know of) but prices of German Rieslings are set to rise in 2014. With the threat of price increases, I figured I would share some details on Riesling and why you should pick some up while you can.

Photo Source. 

Let's start with the bad news. Decanter.com (a great resource for those interested in wine) reported that the price for German Rieslings is set to rise in 2014. The culprit for this spike in prices = bad weather during the 2013 growing season. Key regions like Rheingau and Mosel are seeing 20-30% decreases in their grape yields compared to last year.

So you know that German Riseling may be pricey this year, but you still have some reservations regarding the wine. Give me a chance to change your mind! We discussed a simple overview of Riesling in our Big Six Grapes post last year. Since then, I have noticed that Riesling is seriously misunderstood. Initially, wine drinkers may assume all Rieslings are "Über Sweet." Only when you discuss Riesling amongst serious drinkers will you likely hear more praise than disgust. I have said it before (and will likely say it again), Rieslings are not all super sweet and are arguably the best white wines to pair with food.

Riesling Tasting Profile.

Where it's Grown.  Mosel and Rheingau regions of Germany; Alsace, France; Austria; and Clare Valley Australia.

Common Characteristics.  Aromas of peach, nectarine, apricot, honeysuckle, jasmine, wet stone and even baking spices if it is well aged.

Acidity.  High to very high (perfect for food). It is also this high acidity that allows Riesling to be aged in the bottle and even stay preserved once opened. Most can last at least a decade, while the best bottles can last for almost 100 years.

Alcohol.  Extreme range, can be very low to high.

So if you don't mind the lightly sweetened styles, look to Germany first, anything with Kabinett (normally ripened grapes), Spätlese (sweeter, meaning "late harvest") or Auslese (sweeter still). If you like drier styles, try Alsace, France, where you will notice more citrus and apple balanced with mineral flavors. 

Cheers!

What the Duck? Duckhorn Sues Duck Commander Wines

Pardon my pun - but it's a bad time to have a duck anywhere near your label. Several weeks ago, the prestigious Duckhorn wine company sued Duck Commander wines, owned by Wal-Mart and affiliated with the Duck Dynasty brand, for trademark infringement.

Photo Source via TMZ.

While this story is already out of the news cycle, I thought I would use this opportunity to nerd-out about wine law. A brief explanation of how most courts may examine this case will teach you a lot about the world of trademarks.

Accordingly to The Examiner, Duckhorn argues that Duck Commander ("Commander") infringed on their trademark rights, and diluted the Duckhorn brand, because consumers are confused by the two labels. The basic purpose of trademark law is to ensure that consumers can rely on marks to indicate the source of goods/services. 

Here, Duckhorn claims that Commander's mark is unauthorized because of the likelihood that consumers will associate Commander's (arguably inferior) wines with Duckhorn and think that the wines are produced by, endorsed by or otherwise affiliated with Duckhorn. In order to make a determination as to whether there is a "likelihood of confusion" or not, the court does not engage in a side by side comparison. Instead, the court analyzes several key factors, including:

1. The strength of Duckhorn's mark,
2. The degree of similarity between the two marks,
3. The proximity of the wines,
4. Likelihood of "bridging the gap,"
5. Evidence of actual confusion,
6. Commander's good faith in adopting the mark (Intent),
7. Quality of Commander's products, and
8. Sophistication of consumers.

One of classic trademark case actually discusses these factors as applied to the wine industry. In E. & J. Gallo Winery v. Consorzio Del Gallo Nero (1991), the District Court actually held that Consorzio's use of the name "Gallo Nero" (meaning "Black Rooster" in Italian) did infringe on the E. & J. Gallo name based on the similarity of the products/marks. The court made some interesting points, including: the products are similar impulse purchases because "wine is wine" and sold in similar retails stores.

On the other hand, in Banfi v. Kendall-Jackson (1996), the court ruled on the same trademark infringement issue, within the same industry, and reached a different result. This case discussed the trademark, "COL-DI-SASSO" and held that there is no likelihood of confusion, despite it's use on both company's labels. Feel like this makes no sense - then you are on the right track! So how did the court get around the precedent set in E. & J. Gallo? In Banfi, the court held the products were not similar because while they were both sold in wine stores, they were sold "in different aisles, different regions and at different price points." Suggesting that the wealthier, or more sophisticated, buyers that purchased Kendall-Jackson, would be educated enough to notice the difference. 

I would argue a similar result can be expected with the Duckhorn v. Duck Commander case. More skeptical wine writers even suggest that Duckhorn only brought the suit to gain some publicity from the recent coverage of certain Duck Dynasty cast members comments regarding the gay community. I'll leave that determination up to you!

Congratulations, you survived the first wine law post of 2014. If you want to read the full case opinions, the citations are below. Looking forward to your comments!

Cheers!

Gallo, 782 F.Supp. 457

Banfi, 74 F.Supp.2d 188

Dessert Wines 101

So much for those resolutions to eat better, work out more and lose weight. Why? - because the lovely ladies and gents of The Enthusiasts! an NYC Wine Tasting Club have chosen a truly decadent topic for this month's tasting - Dessert Wines!

Photo Source. Creme Brulee is by far my favorite dessert!

Personally, when it comes to dessert wines - I am typically NOT a fan. Seems weird, I love dessert and have a serious sweet tooth. My first experience with sweet wines was an Eiswein tasting in Heidelberg, Germany. Then, (age the grand old age of 18) I remember thinking the wine was sweet but delicious. However, a few years later, at a food and pairing event (where I had a white dessert wine paired with cheesecake) I was turned off to dessert wines because the pairing was way too sweet. And last month, when I sampled the Lacrima Dolce from Penns Woods Winery, my appreciation for dessert wines was revived! I am officially a fan!

Full disclosure: I work in the tasting room at Penns Woods Winery (and it's kind of the best job ever!). But, I aim to be upfront about my affiliations and remain unbiased when discussing wines I have tasted here (fun fact - it's actually the law). All disclosures aside, the Lacrima Dolce really did change my perspective on wine - it's merlot based and has ripe cherry flavors with a chocolate and cinnamon finish. I would have gladly had just that wine as the perfect finish to any meal. So even,  if you're not the biggest fan of dessert wines you will keep tasting and maybe there will be a game changer for you out there!

Photo Source. 

Now before you rush to the store to pick up a few bottles of sweet wine, it is important to understand the different types: late harvest, noble rot wines, raisin wines, and fortified wines.

Late Harvest Wines.  Typically, when wine is made, the majority of the natural sugar found in the grapes is consumed by the yeast during fermentation and yields the production of alcohol. So it actually takes a bit of effort to reach the increased sugar levels found in most dessert wines. When reading about dessert wines you may see the term chaptalization**, or the process of adding sugar before fermentation. Many winemakers today consider this cheating and it is an unpopular winemaking technique, especially among higher end producers. Thus, some sweeter wines are made from "late harvest" grapes, or grapes left on the vine as long as possible to increase their natural sugar content. This style of wine is commonly made in Germany, Austria and the Alsace region of France with Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, Muscat and Chenin Blanc grapes. Be sure to check the label, for "late harvest," vendange tardive (French: "late harvest"), spätlese (German: "late harvest") or auslese ("select harvest," even later) - these are the sweeter styles.

Photo Source.  Ew, noble rot!

Noble Rot Wines.  Or 'botrytis cinerea' (if we want to get super nerdy), is a beneficial form of fungus that concentrates the sugar content of the grapes. This process is typically used with white grapes because red grapes become too unstable under noble rot. Also, be prepared to pay more for these sweet styles because this process is very expensive - many of the grapes are unusable so it takes many more grapes per bottle. Some of the best examples are made in Sauternes, Barsac from Bordeaux and Centraol Loire Valley. In Germany, look for "beerenauslese and trockenbeerenauslese" or even look to Hungary. The grapes used in each region vary.

Raisin Wines and Eiswein.  Both of these styles involve a process that dehydrates the grapes resulting in wines with high residual sugar. Making wine from raisins is actually one of the oldest methods of making sweet wines. Similarly, eiswein is made from grapes that are exposed to cold temperatures and frozen. 

Fortified Wines.  This is the process of adding alcohol during the winemaking process, either during fermentation or after fermentation has been completed. Common styles include: Port, (made in Douro, Portugal) which is infused with brandy-like yeast or Sherry, (made in Jerez, Spain) which isn't necessarily a sweet style, and even vermouth.  

Regardless of what method is used, expect to pay a bit more for quality dessert wines. It may seem like a splurge, given the smaller size of the bottles, but you are paying for the the extra production costs. If you are looking for values, check out wine made from Moscato or "Late Harvest" Riesling as these styles have higher residual sugars.

Cheers!

**Correction, this term was previously misspelled as "chapitalization" and has since been corrected.